What Is Glycolic Acid And How Does It Work

What Is Glycolic Acid?

A favourite in the skincare world, glycolic acid is the smallest size molecule of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids - or AHAs as you probably know them and works as an exfoliator by loosening and breaking down dead skin cells that sit on the skins outer surface (the stratum corneum) revealing  younger, more radiant cells underneath. 

As glycolic acid possesses the smallest size molecules, it can penetrate the skin with ease and is a hugely effective way to improve cellular turnover. Renowned for its ability to brighten and refine skin texture and tone, as well as reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, breakouts and blemishes – glycolic acid has become a skincare routine essential, and with good reason.

Glycolic Acid Benefits

Glycolic acid has numerous skin boosting properties due to it being both a small molecule acid, natural humectant and chemical exfoliant all in one. These benefits include deep exfoliation, skin brightening, increased moisture retention and skin cell turnover, making it a go-to amongst dermatologists and skin care professionals.

Thanks to its ability to penetrate the dermis – the layer of skin beneath the epidermis where collagen is released by fibroblast cells – it also helps promote collagen synthesis, this stimulation will encourage your skin to produce more collagen naturally - which in turn means that your skin gets stronger, more elastic, and maintains hydration levels more efficiently. Hello, plump skin!

Key benefits are:

• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles

• Improves skin radiance, tone and texture

• Minimizes appearance of pores

• Fights congestion and acne

• Significantly brightens and refines the skin

• Exfoliates and removes dead skin cells

How Do I Incorporate Glycolic Acid Into My Skincare Routine?

If you’re new to Glycolic AHA, an easy way to incorporate them into your routine and reap the benefits is through a cleanser. It’s also a great test for sensitivity as glycolic acid is immediately neutralised on contact with water. The SkinCeuticals Glycolic Renewal Cleanser is one of the best glycolic cleansers to freshen and brighten your complexion as it’s a foaming gel cleanser that does wonders for congested skin. 

Another great way to incorporate Glycolic Acid into your skincare routine once you’ve acclimatised or aren’t as sensitive to exfoliants is by leave-on formulations including toners, serums and moisturisers where the concentration will be a little higher. Dermatologists recommend using products with concentrations no higher than 10% when beginning at home to avoid irritation. Murad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum is a Skinstation brightening favourite with key ingredients like gold-stabilised vitamin C, glycolic acid & phyto-luminescent extract to help give you that extra post-facial glow! 

Skinceuticals SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight Treatment is another great formulation containing 10% glycolic acid and 2% phytic acid to maximise skin cell turnover and give you that refined glow. We recommend starting slow with this product and only using every other night to allow your skin to build up tolerance.

A universal favourite for normal to oily skin types which works as an at home facial peel is the Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel Packettes which are formulated to combat uneven skin tone and texture, fine lines and wrinkles, and enlarged pores. 

To avoid irritating and overdrying your skin, use just one glycolic acid product at a time and as always ensure to wear SPF when using any product with glycolic acid as it does heighten and increase your skin's sensitivity to sunlight.

Are There Any Ingredients You Should Avoid While Using Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic Acid works seamlessly with other AHAS and BHAS, including the pore-refining salicylic acid, however, the one skincare ingredient that should be avoided while using glycolic acid is retinoids. These two used together at the same time can cause irritation and damage your skin barrier.

If you’re eager to try both retinoids and glycolic acid start using one and work up your tolerance gradually. Once you’ve established that, introduce the others slowly and only use them on alternate days. This way you can enjoy the skin-boosting benefits of both and remember to wear SPF daily when using either of these products to protect your precious skin barrier!